Refrigerator Not Cooling — Including “Freezer Works but Fridge Doesn’t”
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Quick answer: Check the temperature setting, door seals and that nothing blocks the vents between freezer and fridge. If the freezer is cold but the fridge is warm, cold air isn’t getting through: check the air damper, the evaporator fan in the freezer, and frost on the evaporator coils (a defrost problem). If both are warm, check the condenser fan and the cold control.
Most fridges make cold air in the freezer and send it to the fresh-food section through a damper or baffle (PartSelect). PartSelect gives normal fresh-food temperature as around 38 °F with the control at mid-point.
Test order: easiest & free first
- Check the settings and powerFREE · 2 min
Confirm the control isn’t set to off/warmest and that the fridge isn’t in a showroom/demo mode (see your manual). Make sure the light and fans come on. - Check door seals and loadingFREE · 5 min
Doors that don’t close fully, or doors opened often, warm the cabinet (LG owner’s manual). Make sure food isn’t blocking the door from closing. - Clear the air ventsFREE · 5 min
Move items away from the vents where cold air enters the fridge section and returns to the freezer. Blocked vents can stop cold air reaching the fridge. - Listen for the fansFREE · 2 min
With the compressor running, PartSelect says you should hear the evaporator fan (freezer) and the condenser fan (near the compressor) running too. - Check the air damper / baffleINSPECT
Freezer works, fridge doesn’t: PartSelect says a damaged damper or broken linkage can stop enough cold air entering the fresh-food compartment. Unplug, find where cold air enters the fridge, and check the damper moves freely. - Check the evaporator fan motorINSPECT
In the freezer behind the rear cover. PartSelect: if this fan fails, freezer temperature rises slowly and fresh-food temperature rises more rapidly. Unplugged, the shaft should turn freely; ice on the motor means defrost the freezer and recheck. - Look for a frosted-over evaporator (defrost system)MULTIMETER
Heavy frost on the coils behind the freezer panel blocks airflow. PartSelect lists the defrost heater, defrost thermostat and defrost timer/control as parts to test. Manually defrosting can restore cooling temporarily while you diagnose. - Condenser fan and cold controlMULTIMETER
If both compartments are warm: the condenser fan near the compressor, and the cold/temperature control, which PartSelect says may be defective or out of calibration if the compressor runs too little. - Control board, thermistor or sealed system$$$ / TECH
PartSelect lists the electronic control board and temperature sensor/thermistor. Compressor and refrigerant faults need a licensed technician.
⚠ Safety: Unplug the fridge before removing any interior panel. Keep food safe: move perishables to a cooler. Never puncture the evaporator coils when removing frost — melt it, don’t chip it.
Parts to check
| Part | Part number | |
|---|---|---|
| Air damper / baffle | Look up by your model number | Check price [PLACEHOLDER – no affiliate link] |
| Evaporator fan motor | Look up by your model number | Check price [PLACEHOLDER – no affiliate link] |
| Defrost heater / thermostat / timer | Look up by your model number | Check price [PLACEHOLDER – no affiliate link] |
| Condenser fan motor | Look up by your model number | Check price [PLACEHOLDER – no affiliate link] |
| Cold control / thermistor | Look up by your model number | Check price [PLACEHOLDER – no affiliate link] |
We only list part numbers confirmed by a cited source. Parts vary by model, so always look up by your model number at the parts retailer before ordering.
💡 Find your model number: Usually on a label inside the fresh-food compartment on a side wall or ceiling, or behind the crisper drawers.
Watch it done
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