Whirlpool Dryer Not Heating (Electric 29″ Models like WED4815EW)
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Quick answer: If the drum spins but there's no heat, check for a tripped breaker leg (240 V needs both) and a clogged vent first. Then test, with a multimeter, the heating element, high-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off, cycling thermostat and thermal fuse.
This guide covers the shared Whirlpool-built electric 29″ platform (sold as Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag and others). Gas models differ (igniter, flame sensor, gas valve coils) — don't use this order for gas dryers.
Test order: easiest & free first
- Check the breaker — both legsFREE · 2 min
Electric dryers use a double-pole 240 V breaker. If one leg trips, the motor (120 V) can still run while the heater gets nothing. Switch the breaker fully OFF then ON, and check any main-panel fuses. - Check settingsFREE · 1 min
Make sure you're not on Air Fluff / No Heat and a heated cycle is selected. - Clean the lint screen and the whole vent runFREE · 30 min
A restricted vent overheats the heater housing and is a cited cause of blown thermal cut-offs and fuses (PartSelect). Disconnect the duct, clear it to the outside hood, and replace crushed foil ducting. Fix the airflow before replacing parts or new ones may blow again. - Unplug and access the partsTOOLS
Unplug the dryer (and pull it out). On this platform the thermostats, fuses and element are reached from the back/lower panel. Photograph wires before disconnecting; test each part with its wires off. - Test the thermal fuseMULTIMETER
On the blower housing. Should show continuity (~0 Ω). Note: on WED4815EW, PartSelect says an open thermal fuse stops the dryer starting; if yours runs, the fuse is less likely the cause. It's one-time, not resettable. - Test the heating elementMULTIMETER
Measure across the two terminals. PartSelect's tech answer for WED4815EW gives roughly 0–50 Ω for good; OL (open) = replace. Also check for a coil touching the housing (continuity from terminal to metal = bad). - Test the high-limit thermostat and thermal cut-offMULTIMETER
Both on the heater housing. Each should read continuity (~0 Ω) at room temperature. A blown thermal cut-off usually means an airflow problem or a high-limit that stuck closed — PartSelect sells them together as a kit for that reason. - Test the cycling thermostatMULTIMETER
On the blower housing. Should read continuity (~0 Ω) across its main terminals at room temperature; open = replace. - Last resort: timer/control, wiring or motor centrifugal switch$$$
If all parts test good, check for burnt terminals at the element and terminal block. Diagnosing the control or motor switch involves live voltage — consider a technician.
⚠ Safety: Electric dryers run on 240 V. Unplug before opening any panel and never test resistance on a powered dryer. Heater parts can stay hot after a cycle.
Common parts for WED4815EW (per PartSelect)
| Part | Mfr # | PartSelect # | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heating Element – 240V 5400W | 279838 | PS334313 | Check price [PLACEHOLDER – no affiliate link] |
| Thermal Cut-Off Kit (incl. high-limit) | 279816 | PS334299 | Check price [PLACEHOLDER – no affiliate link] |
| High Limit Thermostat | WP3977767 | PS11742185 | Check price [PLACEHOLDER – no affiliate link] |
| Cycling Thermostat | WP3387134 | PS11741405 | Check price [PLACEHOLDER – no affiliate link] |
| Thermal Fuse | WP3392519 | PS11741460 | Check price [PLACEHOLDER – no affiliate link] |
Listed for WED4815EW0/EW1. Kenmore and Maytag versions often share parts, but always look up by your model number.
💡 Find your model number: On these dryers the label is usually inside the door opening, on the frame. It looks like
WED4815EW1 — the last digit is the revision; include it when searching parts. Kenmore models start with 110.Watch it done
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